Distance covered: 25.6km
I will be glad when the road ends in Chame, I just feel like this hike isn’t a hike at the moment because we aren’t on a trail. The Nepali Government are looking to extend the road further and further. This would attract tourist that don’t have the time to do the whole hike from Besi Sahar to Jomsom (or further afield).
We were last to get breakfast and had to remind the woman at the tea house that we were waiting. So annoying, especially when we ordered last night and specified a time to help us get away early. We started hiking at 8am.
The landscape was changing before our eyes. We began in lush green jungles, with ferns and evil nettles that really sting when they touch you. Then we passed through a similar terrain, but with less vegetation, rhododendrons and more waterfalls. Today has lead us through a lot of pine trees and giant pine cones, where the granite slabs grew gigantic and the snow capped mountains peaked through the top of the nearby hills. It was different for Everest Base Camp because of this gradual change in vegetation. I just wish the road wasn’t here. I would happily swap the jeeps for yak trains any day.
We were starting to get tired when we arrived at Bratang. We thought this could be an option to overnight, but there was only one tea house which didn’t have sleeping facilities and the place was a bit creepy anyways, surrounded by apple groves fenced off and boasting a red sign that read “no trespassing, fine 5000rs”. As we passed the one tea house we saw a huge new construction that wasn’t quite finished yet. It had an elaborate glass front that went from floor to roof. I was going to take a photo until we got chased out of the village by a pack of 4 dog. They were quite aggressive, and jumped up at our bags as we power walked out of the town.
By the time arrived at Dhukur Pokhari we had been walking in the dark for 40 minutes and we’d had enough! We checked into Hotel Gangapurna and Organic Cafe and I was so elated to have stopped walking, taken my boots off, and relaxed. We had been walking for 25km up hill and it was the hardest day so far, It was very painful just to go up the stairs. Thankfully we had a shorter day ahead of us tomorrow.